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Spring is almost upon us, folks! Like many of you, I cannot wait to get my hands in the dirt. Early March is the perfect time to get a head start on your growing season by starting your seedlings indoors. While you can purchase seedlings from a local nursery or garden center, starting from seed comes with many benefits. We have started our seeds indoors every garden season, and I’m excited to share this guide with you.
Benefits of Seed Starting
- Money saving. Seed packets are typically cheaper than individual plants, typically running a couple of dollars per packet. You will need to purchase some additional supplies, which I will outline below; however, many supplies can be reused year after year.
- Variety control. By starting your own seeds, you aren’t limited to what’s offered in the store. You can grow heirlooms, hybrids, organic, etc. It’s really up to you!
- Seedling control. By starting from seed, you can grow completely organic, if you choose. You can choose organic seeds and soil. You can choose to use fertilizer, if you’d like.
Step One: Germination
Seed Starting Checklist
1. Seeds
– I like to use the following brands, but you can use whatever seed supplier you prefer:
Botanical Interests – www.botanicalinterests.com
Southern Exposure Seed Exchange – www.southernexposure.com
Park Seed – www.parkseed.com
2. A table/surface for your setup
– We’ve used a plastic folding table, our kitchen table, etc.
3. Pods for your seeds
– You can use a variety of mediums here (peat pods, plastic, newspaper, even cardboard/toilet paper tubes). I prefer plastic because it can be reused year after year and can be cleaned and sanitized in between uses.
– Here is our favorite seed starting kit, hands down.
Why this one system?
- This system waters your seedlings from the BOTTOM via a special watering “mat,” which encourages root growth from the start. Watering from the bottom prevents overwatering and fungus growth.
- The water mat also reduces the need to water on a daily basis.
- The kit contains a lid which creates a greenhouse environment for brand new seedlings.
4. A seed starting heat mat
– Heat from the mat encourages germination
5. A grow light and a timer
– We prefer to use a full spectrum LED light.
What is full spectrum and why is it important?
- Natural sunlight includes all spectrums, even beyond what we can see with the naked eye such as ultraviolet and infrared.
- Full spectrum LED lights are designed to mimic natural outdoor sunlight, giving your seedlings a leg up to grow healthier and yield better harvests when moved outdoors.
Bonus: More energy efficient LED lights consume less energy, which is perfect for the 16 hours of light per day that your seedlings will need.
- For the timer, you can use any outlet timer; however, the light I’ve linked below actually comes with a timer.
6. A grow light stand
– A light stand will hold the grow light(s) over the plants. We use one similar to what I’ve linked below. We really like this one because the adjustable stand allows you to move the light up as the seedlings grow taller; this prevents the seedlings from becoming “leggy” early on.
8. Potting soil specifically designed for seed starting
– Why is this important? A seed’s seed coat has tiny holes or pores through which water and air can enter. The soil needs to be porous, so that water and air can enter and reach the seed. I always recommend Fox Farm for premium soil mediums.
Optional Supplies
Congratulations! You’re now ready to sow your seeds! Here are some additional, optional supplies to make your seed starting journey a little easier.
Tiny Tools Set
– When you’re working with tiny seeds (especially flower and herb seeds), things can get tricky during planting. I have been guilty of over-sowing my seeds in the pods. The tiny tools help control seed dispensing and gauging of depth of planting. They’re also so cute. I’d highly recommend.
Plant Labels
– Something I was guilty of during my first few years of gardening was not labeling my seedlings. This can get very tricky if you’re growing multiple varieties of the same plant. These labels are wooden, so they are bio-degradable, and come with a waterproof marker.
Let’s move onto the next step: Graduation.
Step Two: Graduation
Your seedlings have successfully germinated and are beginning to outgrow the pods. You’ve probably moved the light up a couple of inches. Now what?
- Transplant the seedlings into bigger pots. Once again, you can use any medium you prefer. At this point, I like to transition from plastic to peat pots. I have linked some 3 inch ones below that work perfectly.
But how do I get the plants out of the plastic pods?
– Simply turn the plastic pod upside down. By now, the roots probably have come through the bottom of the system. Gently but firmly pinch the bottom of the plastic pod a couple of time to dislodge the soil and plant. It helps to do this when the soil is slightly dry, definitely not when it’s freshly watered as the soil will be more prone to clumping away from the roots. When you feel the soil dislodge, allow the plant and soil to slide out gently, making sure to pull the roots gently up through the hole in the bottom of the pod with the rest of the plant.
– Once transplanted to the peat pods, make sure to give the plant an extra watering.
2. Move peat pods to a plastic tray lined with capillary matting.
– Capillary Matting is a fabric that resembles felt that works in a similar manner to the fabric found in our original seed starting system. It reduces our watering times for seedlings, encourages water uptake from the bottom, and fosters root growth. I’ve found that watering from the bottom versus watering from the top reduces fungus with seedlings.
3. Turn a fan on, or move a fan into the room with the seedlings.
– At this stage, we want to also focus on strengthening the plant’s structure, as well as promoting growth. Before we take move the seedlings outside, one way to simulate the outdoors is to give them a gentle breeze. If you have a ceiling fan in the room, turn it on and run it. If you have an oscillating fan, bring it into the room and run it.
4. Sit back and let your seedlings grow.
Step Three: Hardening Off
One to two weeks prior to transplanting the seedlings into the ground, you will need to harden them off.
Hardening off is the process of exposing transplants (seedlings) gradually to outdoor conditions. Doing so toughens them up by thickening the cuticle on the leaves so they lose less water when exposed to the elements. Follow the schedule below to ensure your seedlings are ready for the great outdoors.
Hardening Off Schedule
1. Begin putting your seedlings outdoors about seven to 10 days before your actual transplant date.
2. Place the plants in a sheltered, shady spot outdoors.
– Start by leaving them outdoors for three or four hours and gradually increase the time spent outside by one to two hours per day.
3. Bring the plants back indoors each night.
4. After two or three days, move the plants from their shady spot into the morning sun but return them to the shade in the afternoon.
– Too much direct sunlight will scorch the leaves and cause sun scald.
5. If temperatures remain warm both day and night (at least 50 degrees Fahrenheit), the plants should be able to handle the sun all day and stay out at night after about seven days.
– Make sure the soil doesn’t dry out, and keep to a regular watering schedule.
6. After seven to 10 days your plants are ready to transplant.
– Try to do so on a cloudy day and water well after planting.
Congratulations, your seedlings are ready to go in the garden!
